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Diamonds
Different Diamond shapes pros and cons the complete guide
Jul 30, 2022
How do you choose the right diamond shape? The Novita Diamonds team understands how difficult it is for first-time customers to navigate the various different shapes and understand their unique benefits or drawbacks. Taking this into account, our gemmologists put together this easy-to-understand guide to help you figure out which diamond shape is best for you. Unfortunately, so much false and misleading information online is spread by companies trying to promote certain shapes. The reasons can range from trying to create new trends, getting rid of slow-moving stock, or increasing profit margins.
 
To help you make the right decision, our gemmologists have maintained an unbiased point of view and listed the actual benefits and downsides of each diamond shape. 
 
ROUND BRILLIANT
 
 We will begin with our most popular cut, the round brilliant shape.
 
 Pros:
  • As a matter of fact, it sparkles the brightest out of all the shapes. The way the facets are cut in a round diamond maximises the amount of light reflected back.
  • With round diamonds always in plentiful stock, customers have more options to choose from.
  • Diamonds of the round shape are timeless and will never go out of fashion, whereas all the other shapes will come and go once in a while. 
  • They are ideal for solitaire rings because of their round shape.
Cons:
  • Round brilliant shape is more expensive than any other shapes, by around 20-30%. This is due to the inevitable waste of rough diamond that is required when creating a round cut. Another reason they are more expensive is that they are always in high demand. 
 
OVAL
 
 Pros: 
  • Among all the shapes, ovals appear the biggest. They are shallow and elongated, thus making the diamond’s spread much larger from the top. A typical oval diamond appears 12-20% larger than a round diamond. 
  • Due to less wastage when cutting rough diamonds, they are roughly 15-25% less expensive than round diamonds.
  • An oval is a great alternative to a round cut stone and is an economical way to get a larger looking stone for the same budget. 
 Cons:
  • The diamond loses sparkle in the middle. As a result of the diamond’s elongated shape, it has fewer facets in the middle. Some ovals dim suddenly in the middle, in a very noticeable way, which is what we call the “bow tie” effect.

Note: Some diamonds have it, while others don’t. 
 
  • Tip:  Make sure you limit your choices to the diamonds on our “available in showroom” or “recommended” list, as our gemmologists have already handpicked oval diamonds that don’t have bow ties. 
  • Tip:  Avoid sites that sell cheap oval diamonds, especially in the US. There is a reason why those diamonds are cheap; they usually have large bow ties and are often called “reject” diamonds by industry insiders.
  • Tip:  Oval diamonds are Novita’s second most popular shape; therefore, we have a large and varied collection, providing you with an excellent collection to choose from. Please contact us if what you are looking for is not in our current stock, and our gemmologists will find it for you.

PEAR

 Pros: 

  • Similar to ovals, pear shapes look bigger than all other shapes beside ovals. Because they are shallow and one side is elongated, the spread of the diamond is much more significant from the top. In general, pears appear to be 12-22% larger than round diamonds. 
  • As a result of less waste from the rough diamond when it is cut, they are roughly 20-25% less expensive than round diamonds.
  • The pear shape works well with solitaire rings.

 Cons:

  • There are fewer facets in the middle of the diamond due to its elongated shape on one side, which leads to a loss of sparkle in the middle. An effect called a “bow tie” occurs when it becomes very noticeable.

Note: It’s not very common. 

Tip:  Choose a diamond from our “available in showroom” or “recommended” diamond list; our gemmologists have already selected pear diamonds with minimal or no bow ties. 

 

CUSHION

Pros: 

  • There is about 20-25% less waste produced from the rough diamond when cut, leading to their lower price.
  • It’s an excellent option for halo-style rings. 

 Cons:

  • They appear smaller because of their depth compared to other shapes at the same carat weight.

 

EMERALD

Pros:

  • Their price is approximately 20-25% lower than round diamonds due to less wastage from rough diamonds.
  • Emerald shapes go well with solitaire rings.

Cons:

  • There is a loss of sparkle overall because of the way the facets are cut.
  • Compared to round diamonds, they tend to be a bit smaller because they hold more weight in their bodies.
  • Considering that emerald cut diamonds are see-through, you need to choose a clarity level higher than what you would use for other shapes to get the same result. 

 

PRINCESS

Pros:

  • Since there is less wastage from the rough diamond, they are roughly 20-30% cheaper than round diamonds.

Cons:

  • The smallest of all shapes due to their heavy body weight and depth compared to all other shapes. In comparison to a round cut, they appear around 10% smaller.
  • In spite of their many facets, they don’t sparkle as much as other shapes because the way the facets are aligned creates a loss of light reflection. 

Tip:  Princess cut diamonds are typically square; however, they are sometimes slightly rectangular. You can check the dimensions from our website or contact us, and we can do it for you. 

 

RADIANT

Pros:

  • As a result of less wastage from the rough diamond, they are typically 20-25% cheaper than round diamonds.

 Cons:

  • Besides that, there isn’t anything worth mentioning.

Tip: Radiant cuts can be very rectangular (elongated). Check the measurements or contact us so we can check them for you. 

 

ASSCHER

 Pros:

  • Due to the reduced amount of waste during cutting, they are roughly 20-30% cheaper than round diamonds.

 Cons:

  • Because they have fewer facets, they don’t sparkle as much as other shapes.
  • They appear smaller in size because they carry more weight in the body than most shapes.
  • Due to low demand, there is a limited supply.

 

MARQUISE 

Pros:

  • Marquise shapes, along with ovals and pears, appear the biggest out of all shapes. This is because the shape is shallow and elongated. Marquise diamonds, when compared to round diamonds of equal weight, tend to appear25% larger on average.

Cons:

  • There is a limited selection available in lab grown stock. In order to cut this shape out from the rough, manufacturers experience a great deal of wastage. Basically, this shape is not economically feasible for manufacture and may lead to an increase in price.
  • Furthermore, finding engagement ring designs can be challenging as it is not a very common shape. 

GENERAL TIPS 

  • Tip:  In case you aren’t sure what shape to choose, always go for a round diamond as it’s the safest bet.
  • Tip:  If you are on a tight budget, go for a shape that is not round to get a bigger diamond. Out of all the shapes, the round one is the most expensive. 
  • Tip:  To make your diamond look as big as possible, choose an oval or pear shape. 
  • Tip:  If you are interested in princess cuts, please remember that princess cut diamonds look the smallest out of all shapes. Generally, princess cuts look about 10% smaller than round diamonds due to their deep cut and extra weight being stored in the body. 
  • Tip:  If you don’t find what you are looking for in our “Available in showroom” or “recommended” section, let us know, and one of our gemmologists will source it for you.